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I Am Because We Are

Who am I ?  And why am I here?  Two big questions. Hard to find anything bigger. You may know them in different forms: Why was I born? What’s the purpose of my life? How should I live?  Essentially the same thing.  I think about these questions from time to time.  Life changes.  I change.  It’s good to assess.  When I run out of answer pathways, I ask other people.  But they usually have nothing for me. That is to say, you can’t get any closer to your answers by asking other people how you should live your life.  How would they know?  I mean, really.

These questions came up again for me just recently at the annual Holiday Folk Fair International in Milwaukee.  This festival of ethnic heritage is a spectacular celebration in song, dance, food, ritual, history, and of course, craft.  Although not as big as in recent years, it’s still an amazing collection of people sharing their culture.  And these people have culture in droves.  They are living it right before your eyes as they play music, cook, speak, sing, dance.  It’s one of the best places to see needlework, too, because unlike a museum where you can observe a costume behind glass, people are wearing their ethnic costumes.  It’s craft in action.  Alive.

Czech Women at "Home"

Czech Women at “Home”

The festival describes it this way: “folklife . . . is the living expression of culture woven into everyday life – anyone’s culture – learned and passed on informally from person to person. It must be alive and current to be folklife, even though it may have existed over long stretches of time.”

To give you some example of this living expression at the festival:

Below is an example of Uzbek suzani, a traditional embroidery done entirely by hand using silk thread on a cotton/silk cloth.  Traditionally, a woman began embroidering her daughter’s bridal bedspread as soon as she was born.  The demand for these handmade pieces has gone up since the fall of the Soviet Union brought more travelers to Uzbekistan.  From what I have read, new pieces are just as well made as vintage ones.  An excellent example of a craft revival.

Uzbek Suzani

Uzbek Suzani

You can see it is handmade by examining the back.  Machine work never looks like this.  These pieces are made in long strips so that more than one woman can work on a bedspread.  When they are finished, women sew them together and then embroider along the seam to hide it.

Uzbek Suzani Reverse Side

Uzbek Suzani Reverse Side

The pieces above were for sale in the bazaar.  Many other people simply set up shop to show others their craft.   Here is a woman in Pomeranian dress demonstrating weaving on a table loom.

Pomeranian Weaver

Pomeranian Weaver

And Darinka Kohl demonstrating the intricate techniques of bobbin lace.

Darinka Kohl Making Bobbin Lace

Darinka Kohl Making Bobbin Lace

When you see so many people celebrating their culture together, you realize something important about the Big Questions.  Correction:  I learned something.  I learned that I’d been asking the wrong questions.  Instead of asking “Who am I?”  I should be asking “Who are we?”  It’s the community that provides identity, direction, vision.  It’s the community that sustains.  If you want to know who you are, you simply look to your community; they will tell you where you came from and where you are going.  You once ate this food.  You once sang this song.  You once survived this war.  If you want to know who you are, learn how we do things: take up this needle and thread, carve this spoon, speak this language, repeat after me.

And after you learn these things, look around and see that all cultures have their versions.  The egg roll is the burrito is the crepe.

Who am I?  And why am I here?  I am because we are.

 

To learn more about heritage crafts still practiced in Wisconsin, click here.

Traditional Crafts Explained

The entire series, Disappearing Acts, in the Guardian is good information for anyone who cares about craft.  It hits exactly the points we’ve been discussing on this blog recently but does it 1000 times better and with great pictures.  (It helps to have funding and a talented staff!)

Here’s a link to draw you in: Traditional Weaving: http://gu.com/p/2hcm4

Well worth it.

The Urge to Make

20131111-011728.jpgMy last post was a lament over lost arts, over how much of our craft / art heritage we lose over time. Reasons are myriad: failure to document, failure to generate interest, bad teaching. There are reasons related to cost, dearth of materials, lack of time. We can also talk about need. We simply don’t need many traditional craft products like we once did. Tastes change, new technologies replace old ones. Once, we relied on horse travel and we had a need for blacksmiths. Horses were replaced by cars and now we have a need for mechanics. Once you could find a blacksmith in nearly every town. Today, how many do you know?

What fascinates me is that we still have blacksmiths at all. We still have people who make bobbin lace, who paint china, who weave seats with slices of cane. Why do people do these things when they could simply go to the store and get a length of lace or a teacup or a chair? In my post, I said there was value simply in the doing. I still think this is true, but it can’t be the entire answer. If it was just about experiencing satisfaction in the doing, then we could stop at taking out the garbage, making the bed, and dusting the lampshades–all those mundane tasks that need to be done: we could do them and feel satisfied and we wouldn’t have to take up rare craft at all.

DSCN1360I’ve been pondering this for two reasons. A friend of mine recently asked me why I knit. The way he put it suggested to me that he thought knitting was simply about the amassment of sweaters, gloves, socks, and scarves. At the end of my life, I could look at this pile of garments and feel good–or maybe superior?–over the sheer size of the wool mountain I’d built. Clearly, this guy doesn’t knit, but he was sincere and his question struck me. It had never occurred to me that someone could not see the value of knitting. He thought it was about accumulation, like collecting records or paperweights.

Yarn stashes aside, knitting has very little to do with collecting. It’s visual, it’s tactile, it’s practical. Beyond this, simply ask any knitter: you’ll hear about self discovery, meditation, self-expression, the challenge of learning, and the joy of creation. It’s this last idea–the joy of creation–that struck me as I was engaged in conversation with another friend about the ornamental clothing of the Masai. Why do we embellish clothing? Or more broadly: why decorate? A thing can just be a thing. It doesn’t need rhinestones to make it purposeful. The rhinestones do not add to a thing’s utility. Rhinestones are extra. So why add them?

DSCN1365

If we want to look at this from an economic standpoint, the answer is clear: decoration adds value. We pay more for decorated things. Part of that value is reflected in the artist’s time and materials. Talent also adds value. We pay premiums for well decorated things and even more for well decorated things that are scarce.

But what if you remove the market? It turns out that people still decorate. Even with no economic incentive, people will still make things beautiful. It’s like we can’t help ourselves. I’m thinking here of the thousands of people who–right now–are tinkering away at their craft without any hope of selling what they make. In fact, selling their work may never even enter their minds.

One might say that we decorate as a form of self-expression. Okay. But this cannot be–or shouldn’t be–the only reason. As proof, I submit my poetry students. Years ago, I used to teach creative writing to college students. In writing workshops, students share their work with each other and offer critique. Every semester I had students who would say, “It doesn’t matter that you don’t understand my poem because I understand my poem and I wrote it for me.” To which I would ask, “If you only write for yourself, why are you in this class?” If we write a poem that’s only meant for our eyes, then the poem can stay in the diary forever. Once we go public, even classroom-style public, we are writing for a reason beyond ourselves. We have pushed beyond our solipsism. We share what we decorate because we long for communion.

It is only in communion that we know who we are. It is only in communion that I see myself reflected in something bigger. Craft takes us out of ourselves. This is why I’m worried about the loss of our craft /art heritage. If I have to go to a museum to understand what a craft had to say about its people, that means it is no longer a living source of communal understanding. It speaks, but from out of the past. Or–my even bigger fear– it could be quite relevant today–but somehow we lost our connection to it. We failed at passing it down because we didn’t write about it enough, we didn’t expose enough people to it, we didn’t teach it well, or we just plain forgot. Maybe we even thought it was someone else’s responsibility.

Spin-Off: You Asked, I’m Tellin’

fair isle yarnSpin-Off Magazine recently sent out a survey to its subscribers.  One of the things the editors wanted was ideas for articles.  Here’s a few thoughts:

Fibersheds and the Work of Rebecca Burgess.  To use her words, a fibershed is a “geographical landscape that defines and gives boundaries to a natural textile resource base.”  Burgess founded the first such network in California after she spent a year of seeking out, making, and wearing only clothes made from natural fibers and dyes grown and made within 150 mile radius of where she lives.  Think about that!  Her work has inspired new fibershed networks around the country and even internationally–all with clearly established boundaries from which all labor and materials must originate.  Read her blog or visit her profile in the August/September 2013 issue of American Craft.  As spinners, we need to think more about this concept.

American Sheep Industry Overview.  Not enough spinners know about the state of the American sheep and wool industry.  They don’t know, for instance, that flock numbers are in slow decline.  They don’t know how hard it is to raise sheep, that the flockmaster often struggles in times of drought or flood, and that these conditions impact the price of the wool (or even the lives of the sheep).  They don’t know what goes into raising bummer lambs or keeping the sheep away from thistle or pooping pigeons in the barn.  However, if we’re serious about sustainability and buying local, this is exactly what the spinner should know about the wool she spins.

Two Sheep

Spinning in the Grease.  I love this technique, but it makes most spinners go eew.  They think it’s messy (yes!) and greasy (yes!).  Many spinners think you can’t get beautiful results (wrong!) or that you can’t wash out all the grease (wrong!).  Spinning in the grease yields beautiful, wearable, soft yarn.  It’s an especially nice technique for anyone who lives in an apartment or simply doesn’t have the space to wash and dry a whole fleece.  It’s my preferred spinning method and I’d like to see more spinners use it.

How to Pick a Fleece.  Most spinners pick a fleece based on the ooh factor.  We react to color, softness, and price and that’s about it.  But go to any fleece judging contest with a knowledgeable judge and you’ll quickly learn there’s a lot more to it.  A lot.  Handle, staple length, second cuts, skirting, luster, crimp, breaks–all these factors should go into your evaluation before you buy.  I was lucky with my first fleece purchase.  I didn’t know a thing: I simply purchased one that looked nice and was affordable.  Thankfully, it made beautiful yarn.  But my second and third fleeces weren’t so wonderful because I was still buying based on emotion, not evaluation.  Once I began my fleece education, I based my purchasing on data, bought better fleeces, and my spinning improved as a result.

The Hackle and Diz.  Drum carders are great if you can afford them.  A good hackle and a strong diz will do the same job at a much more affordable price–and they’re a lot more fun to use.  Why doesn’t anyone use these tools?

Just some ideas, Spin-Off.   Take ’em or leave ’em.

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